Library : B18c, Step-By-Step How-to.

By Ryan Basseri copyright 2004
b16poweredef(at)yahoo.com

WIRING

The first difference between the b16a swap and the b18c swap is the wiring. You will need the
-vtec solenoid
-vtec pressure, with ground
-knock sensor, just like the b16a, but more wiring will have to be made. I made a seperate harness for these.
I am going obd1 so the injector plugs must be added, and the injector resistor box will be removed. This can be done by cutting off the injector box, and soldering all the wires together, or do what I did, and use the obd1 block-off plug. You can leave the obd0 injectors, and leave the injector box, but I need to go full obd1 for the BAR certification.
-You will need to extend the plug for the fan switch on the rear of the block. It has 2 plastic prongs under a rubber boot. Just extend those wires to the thermostat housing plug. Source the plug from your gsr harness, or any 2 pin connector will work.
-Next is the map sensor, it is on the throllte body on the gsr, so just extend those wire across to the throttle body.
-If you have the gsr intake manifold, the black box inder the manifold is the IAB(intake air bypass). This will also need to be wired to the ecu. 1 wire needs a 12v (+) source, and the other wire goes to the obd0-1 jumper harness.
-If you are wondering where to get a 0bd0-1 harness, get it HERE he clearley labels the wires to be soldered, and now offers extended wires that lead all the way to the engine bay.
-Other connectors may be different such as the backup switch. I just soldered on the gsr one, so I could use the grey plug.

-The dizzy wiring is quite easy, just match the colors. The only difference is that you need to wire the larger white wire on the obd0 side, to the yellow/green wire on the obd1 side. -Next is the 4 wire oxygen sensor. These 4 wires will need to be wired to the computer. -If you are wondering where the wires go on the computer, please just read the instructions on the piggyback harness (notice the labled wires, and his instructions).

-It labels... 4 wires for o2, vtec solenoid, vtec pressure switch, knock sensor, iab (if used), purge cuttoff solenoid (if you dont use your stock crx one). -To check your codes, there will also be a wire labeled toggle switch. You hook this wire to a toggle, and the other wire to a ground, then turn on the switch, and the codes will blink straight off your check engine light on the dash. Here is the finished result.

Soldering is not necessary for most connections, simply re-pin your plugs, its easy. HERE

If the wiring is still over your head, have Ryan make it for you!!!

Skunk2 Manifold

Installation of the Skunk2 intake manifold Here or Here are some great links showing the how-to. However, my install was a little bit different.

The pcv (positive crank case vent) is different on the skunk2 manifold, you can use a type r system, or a b16a one. I made the b16a one work. You can also just cut a hose to reach the pcv valve, but that dosent look too clean.

The skunk2 manifold is fairly straight forward, you will need some longer coolant hose, a type r throttle cable bracket, a 90-91 integra (or type r)throttle cable, and a b-series (non gsr) bell crank for the throttle body.

Here are the bolts I used to bolt in the fuel rail. The stcok brown shim was too thick, and no shim was not enough. Also, the fuel rail studs were kinda tricky. The center one was fine, but the end 2 were not threaded low enough. You could go to Acura and buy 2 new "center" studs, but I ellected to go to the hardware store instead. Here is what I bought. The bolt is a 6mm.

Exhaust Manifold

I just used my old B16a header. I plugged up the dual bungs, and used the one on the collector for the o2. It worked perfect, reached just fine.   Axles

Hasport told me that the best axles to use are there custom ones with a gsr int. shaft. Raxles said 89 integra outers/shaft with the gsr inners, and a gsr int. shaft.
But.... Hasport said the best combo for all stock axles, meaning no mixing and matching is the 90-91 axles, and int. shafts. Since I had those, thats what I am using.

Tranny

I am running the lsd gsr tranny with the hasport cable to hydro efb2 kit. Its nice, I like it. If you use the 90-91 axle setup, put a 90-91 int. shaft side tranny seal in. - If you use the cable tranny with gsr axles, a gsr int. shaft side tranny seal is needed. - If you have the gsr tranny and gsr axles, no mods are needed. - If you have a cable tranny and 90-91 int. shaft and axles no mods are needed.

Steering Knuckles

I had a B16a before, so I had to make no mods here.
-If you have a si, you will need to take off the axle dust seal, and knuckle inner ring. More on this process in the B16a section.
-If you have a HF or a STD Civic, get a set of knuckles from a civic/crx si/dx. Or you can get some 90-91 civic EX knuckles, they have a tad bigger brake rotors (10.2").

ECU

To be BAR certified I have to run a usdm p72 computer. Mounting this computer can be tricky. You may need to cut off a leg, and shim with washers. Also, a dent may need to be made in the floor for clearance. All I needed was to dent the floor a hair, and she fit decent under the factory shroud.

Intake

I am using a crx si intake box with a k&n drop in filter. I am also using a jdm xsi intake pipe. It fits great. Just had to trim the crx air box down a little. You can use any intake kit made for a crx.

Radiator/coolant hoses

The top is a 95 gsr hose cut down, and the bottom is a 90-91 integra also trimmed down. You may have to trim off an inch or so of the stock crx hose as a shim because the integra hoses have too large of openings.

The rear back heater hose is a piece of hose cut to fit, from a roll of hose. The rear heater hose that goes to the side of the engine under the distributor is a 89 crx si hose.

Mounts

I used the hasport efb2 kit, but, different brackets are needed. The drivers side bracket that goes between the timing belt has to be from a 90-91 integra (or a gen 1 b16a), and the rear tranny bracket ("t" bracket) needs to be from a 90-91 integra (or a gen 1 b16a). It will also need to be drilled out (on the 2 holes that bolt to the tranny) with a 9/16ths metal drill bit. The gsr tranny uses bigger hardware. Its easier than it looks. This is not needed for cable trannys.

Hood

There are a few options here. You can get a sir front end conversion, sir style hood for usdm front ends, or just cut your stock one. Thats what I did, I cut 2 "ribs" out of the hood on the driver side, above the valve cover.