Make sure you allow for the adjustment to mostly
shorten the panhard bar, unless you plan on lifting your Teg :D
Now double check your overall length, and mark all the joints with
a indelible marker or chalk, so you know where to line things up
when welding. It is crucial to keep the pipe straight/square in
the channel while welding. Use a vice to hold the channel, then
place the appropriate pipe in the channel, making sure the pipe
lays flat against the top part of the channel, double check the
marks you made earlier then use the vice to squeeze the channel
so that it clamps the pipe in place. Check your marks and begin
welding. Repeat this process for the other end. Now insert the bolt
into the short piece of pipe and line it up with its marks, then
weld it in place. Last is the nut to be welded on the long piece,
this is a little tricky to square up. Set the pipe straight up and
down in the vice and place the nut on the end, Tack weld the nut
to the pipe on one side only. Using a square check and adjust the
nut as required and weld completely. Once it has cooled from the
welding spin on the second nut all the way, this is the lock nut.
Assemble the rest of the panhard bar, paint it and install your
new bushings. You can now install this in your car and adjust as
necessary. Don't forget to tighten that lock nut.
Q: How would I install a set of aftermarket
torsion bars?
A: This answer comes from the Mullinator's web site http://mybiz.aintnoneofyour.biz/crx/
Set the emergency brake and loosen the front lug nuts. ? Raise the
car using the bump under the radiator, in the center of the front
of the car. This positioning will allow more clearance for your
work area. But remember; most folks do not consider working under
a car supported only by a jack as safe. You should use jack stands.
I warned you. * Remove the wheel. * Remove the 17mm screw that locates
the strut cartridge in the steering knuckle. Jiggle the strut to
make sure it's free of the knuckle. Also remove the 17mm height-adjusting
nut and the dust cap on the front of the torque tube. * Hit the
newly revealed front opening of the torque tube w/ PB Blaster. *
Remove the 2- 12mm screws that hold the cup at the back of the torque
tube to the frame rail. * Remove the cup. It is held on pretty well
even after you remove the screws-- here's the best method for removal
I've found, so far. Hit it with PB Blaster. Liberally. Then alternately
tap the top and bottom lips of the cup (the metal part, not the
rubber insert) with the edge of your large flat-blade screwdriver.
I found my 3lb hammer worked much faster than my 16oz. Patience
will pay large dividends. Trust me, it will come off. * Remove the
circlip from the rear end of the t-bar.* HOLD SOMETHING WOODEN LIKE
A BROOM HANDLE OR A DOWEL against the back of the bar and hammer
it forward. Again, a 3lb short-handled hammer works wonders here.
You need to move the bar just far enough forward to reveal the wire
clip at the front. Do not bash the bar past this point, it will
make it more difficult to remove the bar later. * Remove the front
clip and tap the
bar all the way out, toward the rear of the vehicle. Remember this:
if you encounter much resistance when attempting to move the bar,
you have done something wrong. Double-check that the strut cartridge
is free and that you removed the height-adjusting nut. * Remove
the torque tube. Once the bar is out, the tube slides to the rear
and off of the car. * If you choose not to machine the torque tube,
match your aftermarket bars to the stock ones. I got bars stamped
L and R, but they were actually two left bars. This will not affect
owners who modify the torque tube. Note that after they learned
of my experience, OPM diligently inspected the rest of their stock
for mistakes and informed the manufacturer to double-check their
shipments. Evidently my set was just a fluke. * Install the circlip
on the rear of the bar. The rear has the L or R stamping and is
slightly larger in diameter than the front. * Set the torque tube
in place. Slide it as far forward as you can. Make sure you position
the hole for the height-adjustment mechanism over the bolt onto
which the nut will install. Do not install the nut, yet. * Grease
the splined ends and insert the bar. You will have to align the
key on the front end of the bar with the appropriate keyway on the
arm that bolts to the lower control arm. * Now rotate the torque
tube until it's adjusting arm is about halfway up the adjusting
bolt. Carefully engage the rear of the bar with the splines in the
torque tube. If you apply very slight forward pressure with your
hand, you will feel the splines as you wiggle the torque tube. Once
you have engaged the splines, USE THE WOODEN DOWEL and your hammer
to slide the bar forward until the circlip hits the tube. If you
encounter more than moderate resistance, you are doing something
wrong.
continued on next page...
|
