Q: What is the best way to increase negative
camber in the front end.
A: You can buy a camber plate from OPM Motorsports (expensive)
or you can bolt on the lower arms from a first gen. Integra which
you can buy from a junkyard (cheap). The Integra arms are a little
longer than the CRX arms so you get about 1 degree of negative camber
that way, but you have no real adjustment. The camber plates give
you the option to dial in as much or as little camber as you want.
Q: How can I increase caster?
A: Lightspeed used to make a camber plate that included
a caster adjustment; but they are hard to find. One trick you can
use is to loosen all of the bolts that hold the sub-frame to the
car and then use a winch to pull the sub-frame forward a bit. Re-tighten
the bolts and you have just increased the caster.
Q: I want to change the camber and toe of
my rear wheels.
A: Moog makes a set of shims to make these adjustments.
Between the trailing arm and the rear hub are four bolts holding
everything together. A guy on the island of Malta has told me that
he made the adjustments to his rear suspension with a couple of
washers between the trailing arm and the top two bolts. And he got
some toe out by putting an extra washer into the front two bolts.
Q: Quicker steering?
A: The HF model has a quicker steering ratio rack and pinion
so you can put that into your DX or Si.
Q: Could I make my own adjustable Panhard
Bar?
A: Yes, the following is from the 1st Gen Integra web site
www.g1teg.org
How To modify 84-87 Civic/CRX and 86-89 Integra Panhard
bar.
To make this mod simpler, I suggest picking a used panhard bar from
a wrecking yard. You will also need about 3' of 3/4" diameter pipe,
and a suitable sized bolt to fit inside of the above mentioned pipe
snuggly. The bolt should be 3-5" in length, and you will also need
two nuts to fit the bolt. I used a 9/16" bolt because it fit snug
in the pipe I used, this size will vary depending on the pipe you
use. This mod does require welding, if you cant weld it, any shop
with a MIG welder should be able to weld this for you for a small
charge, 1/2 hour of shop time max. Since you will be welding to
the parts of the old panhard bar, you will need to remove the bushings,
otherwise they will be burned during the welding. I strongly suggest
polyurethane bushings as a replacement. Now it is very important
to measure the overall length of the panhard bar and keep note of
it. The easiest way to do this is to use a piece of cardboard and
trace out the panhard bar. Once the panhard bar has been measured,
cut a section from the middle about 1', leaving some of the channel
at both ends. All excess paint needs to be removed for welding,
sand down the inside of the channel to expose clean metal. Also
during welding the undercoat paint will peel and burn off, to get
rid off the undercoat just burn it off with a propane or acetylene
torch. Let the pieces cool off. Now the bolt you will use for the
adjustment should fit snug in the pipe. Cut only the head off of
the bolt with a hacksaw. Spin on one of the nuts 1 or 2 turns. Measure
the remaining threads left for the nut to spin onto, keep note of
this measurement as well as mark the bolt. Now the smaller bushing
end (the frame end) is where I put the adjustment, to make it possible
to adjust it without removing the whole panhard bar. So this part
of the old channel can be cut a little shorter than the bigger bushing
end. Now lay the two pieces of the original panhard bar onto the
cardboard you traced it on to. Measure the distance between bushing
sleeves, subtract the amount of adjustment left on the bolt and
this is the length of the pipe overall. Cut the pipe to length,
then cut it into 2 sections one short and one long. Now assemble
everything on the cardboard, sliding the pipe into the channel until
it bottoms against the bushing sleeves, setting the bolt partially
into the short tube at your earlier mark and resting the nut against
the long tube.
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